Almost all Hollywood surf movies are not received well by surfers. Why’s this, you may ask? I read an article recently by Abby Aguirre from the NY Times who states that “Part of it has to do with a studio tendency toward surf tropes and clichés (“Cowabunga!” Hang Ten!”). More of it has to do with the nature of the sport itself: it breeds localism.”
“Of Men and Mavericks” is a biopic being released late this year, that tells the tale of Santa Cruz surfing legend, Jay Moriarty as he sets out to ride the Northern California break known as Mavericks. Although the producers of the film went to great lengths to ensure that they got it right – capturing the story and sport – by including some of the most knowledgeable of surfers including Dan Malloy, Greg Long and Grant Washburn, “a filmmaker who wishes to get a surf spot right by its locals has his work cut out for him”.
The film features authentic oversize work wear of the 90s and 173 Santa Cruz Surfboards shaped by Bob Pearson purely for the production.
Photographs by THOMAS CAMPBELL.